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TRICHOLOGY

SOME QUESTIONS TO THE REBITALIA TRICOLOGIST EXPERT

How many hair do they fall daily?

The hair has three phases: anagen (growth), catagen (stasis), telogen (rest), phase in which the pilifera papilla comes off and creates a new hair. For the daily change, fall from 60 to 75 hairs that can reach 150 in periods of spring and autumn. Under normal conditions this does not worry, because the pilifera papilla will generate a new hair.

When should we worry?

When we begin to notice a thinning or an important thinning.

What are the reasons for classic alopecia (hair loss)?

The hair can fall down going to death before the time due for various reasons: stress, inheritance, diets, medicines, postpartum, iron or vitamin deficiency, little circulation, excess fat, excess of desquamation, infectious diseases , washings or wrong chemical treatments, excess of toxins, etc. The primary cause remains the testosterone that reacts differently on the follicles on the skull vault.

Can we intervene?

Certainly. In some cases excellent results are obtained, in others a little less, in cases of hereditary fall there is a slowdown. The treatments must be performed well, for a long time and recommended by experts or tricolor hairdressers.

Where do the treatments work?

The treatments are valid for cases of early fall, must act on the papillera which is found in the skin, together with the bulb in anagen, the only living part of the hair, and is responsible for the birth, growth and death of the hair.

What should be a good treatment for the fall?

Meanwhile, a good treatment is never for the fall, but must act on the new bulbs growing, the old hair is now dead. Valid cosmetic treatment must act in 5 ways:

1) washing the head eudermically;

2) stimulate the blood circulation of the skin for oxygenation and nourishment of the hairy papillae;

3) nourishing the scalp;

4) restore the normal hydro-lipid mantle of the scalp pH 5.5;

5) give a better appearance to the hair, also working with masking components aesthetic degradation.

Is massage really useful?

For a good treatment, I mean good products and their good application with stimulating, draining, relaxing massage that will greatly improve the effectiveness of the products.

So, shaving or using refreshing lotions or keratin is not necessary?

Shaving is not necessary, because we have to act underneath, in the papilla. Falling lotions that are just cold, are just a mockery, because the cold is astringent, we would go to keep up, even for a few days, a hair already dead choking the new hair growing underneath. We use testosterone inhibitors such as saw palmetto. We must open, heat, inhibit testosterone, do not close and cool or give keratin. The hot-cold action helps because it exerts a pumping on the microcirculation. However, there are no miraculous preparations.

Are essential oils useful?

Of course, they have a detoxifying, calming, purifying, hormone regulating, antifungal, and disinfectant action. They penetrate the skin and remain in circulation for 72 hours.

Why do we have greasy hair

Excessive secretion of sebum is a problem that affects especially the male sex because the androgen hormones are affected by the filling of the sebaceous glands. But there are also several cases among women, because they have a greater number of androgenic hormones or hormone imbalances. The excessive sebum is often of inferior quality, it oxidizes and degrades becoming rancid and poisonous for the skin and the hair with consequences that lead to seborrheic dermatitis and to the early fall.

Can we fight?

It is ridiculous to believe that we are fighting greasiness, but must be re-educated and the aforementioned consequences must be avoided. You have to use shampoos that can be called anti-fat, but that actually have gentle surfactants (amphoteric) and soothing components. Better still, it would be to use the washing oil. The result will be slight as a decrease in greasiness, excellent in avoiding the consequences over time. The anionic shampoos and degreasers have immediate effect, but over time the situation will worsen. Do not use shampoos - balm and creams because they contain fatty substances, therefore very harmful in case of the aforementioned anomaly.

And aridity?

The sebaceous glands, as they can produce a lot, can produce even less than necessary, the skin and hair will therefore be dry. We will have to intervene with shampoos, balsams, moisturizing lotions, emollients and especially with protective devices that avoid external attacks, but that are largely vegetable, otherwise, depositing on the skin will create problems.

Why do we have dandruff?

The skin, to renew itself, desquamates continuously. In fact, the outermost layer, the horny, is made up of so many drops of keratin that are renewed continuously and together with the acid hydrolipid mantle protect us from external aggressions and bacteria. When for various reasons this renovation is too fast we will notice a large quantity of flakes. The real name of dandruff is "pityriasis" which derives from the name of a beating that is present on the skin, in large quantities, in the presence of dandruff. Dandruff is therefore very harmful to the skin and hair.

Is dandruff always fought in the same way?

Absolutely not. Dandruff may be oily (pityriasis steatoide) in cases of skin with excessive sebum; large flakes. Mixed (pityriasis) in cases of excessive sebum and sweating, this is the most common; medium and resistant flakes. Dry (dry desquamation) in case of little sebaceous secretion and excessive sweating; very fine flakes. It is therefore clear that it should be treated differently. The dry cleansing oils are excellent for removing the scales, without attacking the acid coat of the skin. We will then use sulfur shampoos for oily dandruff or pyrithione-based zinc and emollient plant substances because these substances dry the skin, then add essential oils and skin-purifying extracts. Excellent are the lotions, used as disinfectants, also recommended for applications between washing and the other.

Why do the hairs get damaged, break and have split ends?

This anomaly can occur due to chemical treatments, alkaline, aggressive, too frequent and without precautions. Or in weak hair and predisposed to atmospheric aggressions and aggressive and poor shampoos.

How can we intervene?

The problem can not be solved because the outer part of the hair is a dead keratin fiber. We must intervene to reinforce the bulb and momentary aesthetics. First of all, it is necessary to intervene on the bulb with treatments that help the growth of a healthy hair. The new generation depth packs have a longer lifespan than balms, but not final. Emollient shampoos, good conditioners and acid and film-forming restructuring products should always be used. The acidic product closes the scales of the hair.

Is washing hair often harmful?

Absolutely not, sometimes (too much fat, dandruff, dust) is even indispensable, harmful is to wash them badly and with bad detergents. The skin is also oxygenated from the outside. If we leave too much fat on the skin, this oxidizes and creates problems for the skin, the follicle closes and the bulb suffers. Dandruff creates redness to the skin and an increase in bacteria. Good surfactants do not attack the skin and hair.

What are surfactants?

Water alone does not wash. So we use surfactants that are substances that have the property of decreasing the surface tension of a liquid: these agents dissolved in the water are arranged on the surface of each molecule forming a casing that lowers the force of cohesion. When they encounter dirt, the part of surfactant similar to the joint (which has a positive charge) binds to this, the other part is similar to water and remains in it. The dirt is broken down into droplets that form an emulsion that is removed by rinsing. The surfactants are divided into: anionics with the negatively charged hydrophilic head and the lipophilic part without charge. They are a bit 'aggressive on skin and hair, but are used a bit' for all shampoos because they wash better being the positive dirt. Cationic, they have the positive head and the negative lipophilic part, they are used added as polishes or disinfectants in small percentages, they irritate the eyes. Amphoteric, are the best for a good shampoo, because they have both charges, but read. The head is positive and the lipophilic part negative, they behave according to the type of skin and receive all the components we want to add to the shampoo. Non-ionic, they have no charge, they are used as stabilizers. The natural emulsifying oils, are derived from castor oil, soybeans, almonds, corn, etc. They wash eudermally but do not make foam, so they have little demand, even if the foam has nothing to do with washing. They are excellent for detaching dandruff.

Can hair problems be solved with a shampoo?

Absolutely not, the right shampoo can help solve the problem and remove, over time, the fall, the dandruff, the split ends when the cause is limited to previous unsuitable shampoos.

Can shampoos ruin the hair?

Of course, the bad quality or unsuitable shampoo can create serious problems with skin and hair, especially if used frequently; the same a shampoo - conditioner on a greasy skin or an alkaline shampoo. The shampoos for children are often alkaline so they do not burn to the eyes, but over time they will do damage.

Are all shampoo the same?

No, there are shampoo on the market formulated with shoddy surfactants and others with balanced surfactants. My advice is to avoid low-cost products because they could cause serious damage. However there are no natural shampoo, but less aggressive and with the addition of some natural ingredients.

The more shampoo is thicker, the more concentrated it is?

No, the thicker shampoo is often made less fluid with common kitchen salt or other thickeners. The shampooing raw materials of the shampoo are fluid.

Does the largest foam determine the quality of the shampoo?

No, foam is only psychologically important. Unfortunately, advertising has been based on the belief that one more shampoo makes foam, the more effective it is.

Does neutral shampoo mean delicate?

No, the neutral adjective refers exclusively to the degree of acidity and has no reference to the quality and washing characteristics. Remember that the hydro-lipid mantle is slightly acidic, so the shampoo is recommended slightly acid to avoid unnecessary work of the skin buffering factor. The shampoo must be produced with mild surfactants.

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A day dedicated to the world of trichology starting from the skin, his functions until you get to the hair, how it's done, to the problems that can arise, to possible treatments; read an Inci, etc.

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